How to Tell If Your EEC-IV is Bad
To find out if your EEC-IV is bad, you need to perform a self test on your vehicle. Your EEC-IV has two connectors – the large one contains a ground and an output for the self-test, and the small one contains the input for the self-test. To perform the self-test, you need to move the throttle to WOT and hold it for approximately six to nine seconds. If it fails, the EEC-IV will generate an error code.
The EEC-IV displays result codes after the first test cycle. When the test is finished, it cycles at twice the threshold it did at the first test. The EEC-IV can also display codes after each test cycle, so it’s important to pay attention to these.
If you notice one of these codes, you should try to find a solution. If you can’t determine the cause, try running a KOEO test. KOER is a diagnostic tool that uses high-speed codes that most scanners cannot decipher. Once the test is complete, the EEC-IV will output code numbers, error codes, and separator pulses.
The EEC has multiple functions, including timing, fuel, and performance parts. The EEC also measures fuel delivery, which can tell you if your car needs a tune up. It can also tell you if your engine needs new performance parts. If the EEC is out of whack, it’s time to replace it.
If the noises don’t stop, it may be time to replace the EEC. The EEC has a special memory for sensor readings, which means that it’s harder to detect a bad sensor. It takes a longer time to recognize a bad sensor because it needs to memorize previous data.
The EEC controls the ignition, fuel, and spark in the engine. It has a relay that monitors power and directs how virtually every component in an engine works. The EEC-IV design was introduced in the 1984 model year and is different from its predecessors.